This ancient church identifies itself as 'The Ancient Mother Church of Brighton', and stands well back from the sea close to the original centre of this vibrant Sussex city in southern England. The building itself is a metaphor for the Church as an institution; foundations laid back in the mists of time, fabric added in bits and pieces, as need arose, but known most for its square tower and Norman font (which may pre-date the current walls). The tower has a viewing platform as befits any sea-side church, the better to spot Spanish men of war or German U-Boats. The tower holds bells as well, which rang out across the city for my visit on 17 May. The parish still prays for the fishers of the town, once the centre of Brighton's economy.
You would all feel at home at Sunday Eucharist here, as the format is entirely familiar, but St Nicholas has an Anglo-Catholic feel to its liturgy, most notable in the routine and liberal use of incense, to the point where the thurifer works as hard as the celebrant. The Bible is liberally covered with incense before the Gospel is read, and the sanctuary crew are a little more formal in both appearance and body language. The current altar is free-standing on its raised platform. Bells are rung - both tower and sanctuary - before the host is elevated, as a final call to those who would join the feast. There is a small choir and a piano, but the organ was there too, especially for Stanley's D Major Trumpet Tune at the close of play before we met for tea and biscuits at the back of the church.
As ever, the congregation mirrored Brighton's own diversity. St Nick's, as it is commonly known, has a long-standing ministry to the rainbow community. I wondered - not for the first time - whether liturgical tradition goes hand in hand with social liberty. Other things were familiar too - they are in the midst of an interregnum! And Ascension Day was to be their AGM, so I made my reluctant farewells to friends old and new, lest I get a job! Word was that there was a lot of interest from clergy hoping to fill the incumbency, so a new vicar may not be too far off.
Revisiting this familiar space is a reminder that the Anglican Communion is broad indeed, and that diversity in worship sometimes hides what we have in common. How many other institutions can seem so familiar 23 hours' flying time away? I was asked to bring greetings from their congregation to ours; for more information visit stnicholasbrighton.org.uk
